To be honest, Nepal had never been on our list of countries to visit. I knew it was filled with amazing mountains, I mean Mount Everest is there for goodness sake. And as much as we love hiking, we are solid day hikers and city explorers who love a bed at night. We are not 10 day hiking trips where you sleep in tents. Nepal is a fascinating, developing country. If you’re looking for gritty, off the beaten path, spiritual and colorful, then I’d recommend it.
Nepal has a lot of unique things to experience and so much beautiful scenery to see. Yes you can do the long treks if that is on your list, but you can also do so much more! Check out our trip and tips below for more details!
When To Go
The most ideal time to go is the fall in October and November because the rainy season is over, the plants and flowers are a lush green and in full bloom, and the skies are clear blue.
March, April, early May are great in terms of warm but not hot weather and not raining but you may encounter pollution from the burning of fields. It kind of just sits in the valley.
Starting in late May, peaking in July and Aug and winding down in early September is the monsoon season and virtually all tours don’t operate during this time as trekking is dangerous due to mudslides and poor infrastructure.
Airports and Visas
There is one international airport in the capital of Kathmandu Nepal, Tribhuvan International Airport. Honestly, this airport is hectic and at first seems very hard to navigate due to its age and lack of good signage. But don’t let it freak you out. You can totally get through this part with a little preparation.
For US citizens, you can get a visa on arrival. The price changes for the duration you stay. 15 days tourist visa = $30 USD, 30 day = $50, and 120 days = $125. The documents required to get a visa in Nepal are:
-Passport with 6 month validity
-Visa Form (This can be done either prior to arrival or at the airport’s kiosk)
-Cash USD for visa payment
At the airport, there are kiosks where you have to fill out a form. You can do this online before you go and print it before you get there to save time. It’s valid for 15 days so you should have time to fill out, print and bring with you before you head out. It’s a real timesaver to do it beforehand but if you cannot, no worries the kiosk is available for you to fill it out.
When you enter the customs area, turn right to find the kiosks. If you have it printed, turn left and immediately head to the cashier counter. They prefer USD so if you have it, bring it with you but we did see them take other currencies, all cash. Then follow the customs lines like normal.
Tour vs Do It Yourself
We are typically do-it-yourself travelers. We love doing the research, the flexibility to go where we want and the cost savings. But Nepal kind of scared us in terms of getting around because there is not good public transportation.
We only had 4 days there and we wanted to make the most of the time so we ended up hiring Responsible Treks based on a recommendation from a friend and we are so glad we did! Their service is unmatched. From planning over WhatsApp to a super late pickup at the airport to on the spot customization, we couldn’t be happier with the service and responsiveness of this amazing company. You won’t regret it.
If you do decide to do it yourself, see this helpful blog post about getting out of the airport and around town. We also learned that a lot of the National forests are being restricted to tourists. They are only allowed to go if they have a guide with them. So do your research carefully or hire a local guide.
Cash
While visa is accepted at some places, there is always a fee added to your bill to use a credit card and a lot of places don’t accept it so be prepared to pull some money out. There are exchanges at the airport but we were very easily able to pull out money at an ATM near our hotel. As with all ATMs, there is a fee (700 rupee) to pull cash out.
At most entrances to popular outdoor destinations, there is a ticket counter where you need to buy a ticket to walk around. The price is significantly higher for foreigners than for locals. Keep this ticket with you as you’ll need to show it to any security guard who asks for it.
Kathmandu City
Kathmandu is a city unlike any we’ve been to so far. It’s wild, dusty, filled with traffic and noise, colorful and very religious. Luckily we didn’t encounter overwhelming smells but did I mention the insane traffic?
After talking to locals, we learned that the country doesn’t have proper resources to support building sustainable infrastructure. often roads get damaged in monsoon season and rarely fixed so roads can be bumpy or not paved. Traffic can get crazy as there are no traffic lights either.
The city also doesn’t have reliable public transportation. There are buses but we heard they don’t stick to a schedule or routes making it very difficult for travelers to utilize. Bringing luggage on the buses would be nearly impossible due to overcrowding. This leaves taxis or hired cars as the only reliable way around the city. We walked a bunch but getting between locations needs a car.
Another thing we noticed in Kathmandu city is the amount of stray dogs. They seem wild and their bark is bigger than their bite as they actually are quite friendly. The locals don’t mind them and they fit into the fabric of their society. I wouldn’t recommend petting them though. Just walk right past them and they’ll leave you alone.
Where To Stay
If you like the hustle and bustle, we’d recommend you stay near Thamel. It’s a very popular destination for the start of many tourists trekking so you can find shops selling knock off North Face and Patagonia gear. There are also tons of restaurants, cafes, and stores so it makes for great meandering and shopping.
If quieter, more local is your vibe, we stayed at a great hotel outside the hustle and bustle called Shambaling Boutique Hotel it’s closer to the airport, much quieter and had excellent service. Honestly some of the best service we’ve ever experienced. Do remember that this is a developing nation so although it’s a highly rated hotel, remember certain amenities and things you are used to may not be the same.
Things To Do in Kathmandu
Swoyambhu Mahachaitya (Monkey Temple) Situated on top of a hill, this area provides some of the best views of the valley and the colorful homes in Kathmandu. It’s a must see stop for sure.
Hundreds of monkeys and dogs live here. They stay in the area because of the food they get but please don’t feed them.
This area combines both stupas, stone and metal worship sites, and a blending of Buddhist and Hindu elements. We were able to get up closer to these sites which provided a more enjoyable experience.
At each building worshipers can bring offerings for specific things: one for clean air, one for sick children, one for issues with fire elements (anger, rage, etc). A specific story that stuck out to us was that long ago a woman’s baby died. She went to Buddha and asked him to bring her baby back. He replied he would if she could bring him a handful of mustard seeds she collected from anyone who hadn’t lost a family member. After months of searching, she couldn’t find anyone. He told her that everyone experiences loss. Then she made it her mission to help sick children. Now there is a shrine dedicated to her and people bring their sick children there for help.
Boudhanath Stupa is the largest Buddhist temple in Nepal and most holy Tibetan Buddhist temple outside of Tibet. You are not able to go in, but you can walk the perimeter and spin the prayer wheels. Buddha’s eyes are facing all four directions.
The stores and shops around the circle provide excellent souvenir material. Also most restaurants in the circle are on the 2nd, 3rd or 4th floor which provide great rooftops with a view of the Stupa. They are a little more expensive but the view is a nice treat.
Pashupatinath Temple is the oldest Hindu temple in Kathmandu. It’s more like a city of temples than just one temple. Non-Hindus are not allowed to go into all places which aren’t marked but a friendly guard will ask you not to go in. Don’t worry, just oblige as it’s their holy places.
Nightly at sundown and lasting about 30 minutes, they perform a ceremony on the river. You can’t miss it as the crowds are all focused on the one platform. Also off to the side, down river, you’ll see outdoor cremation. It was explained to us that this ceremony and cremation are all celebrating the life the river provides and the ending of life in harmony with each other.
Patan Durbar Square is a UNESCO heritage site. It’s full of temples made of different materials like stone, wood and metal.
They’ve restored the original palaces and opened it all to the public so it makes for great photo ops of the beautifully carved material. A few floors were also converted to a modern sleek museum that showcases artifacts and statues from the area. Although small, the museum was well done!
The Golden Temple, Hiranya Varna Mahavihar, is within walking distance as well. Interesting fact: a young boy and his parents from the community are elected for a month-long period to perform all the rituals in the golden temple. The boy and his dad are required to wear a single white robe the whole month. They shower daily but aren’t allowed to wash the robe.
Pro tip – If you’re looking for sound healing bowls, behind the Golden Temple is the most knowledgeable shop owner. She does a demonstration on you to show the power of the bowls. Her materials are much higher quality and are used medically so expect to pay $200+ per bowl. Link here
Kathmandu Durbar Square is another UNESCO heritage site. There was a lot of damage done in the 2015 earthquake and it’s clear they are trying to rebuild. I can’t say I think the square is worth the 1000 rupee price though.
There is an old palace they turned into a small museum and a small courtyard you can walk through but it’s not nearly as impressive as the Patan Durbar Square.
One interesting thing we did see was the Kumari, a Buddhist living goddess. Basically a prepubescent girl chosen from the Shakya clan of the Nepalese Newari Buddhist community who lives in one of the buildings and only shows her face once a day. She’s colorfully adorned and worshiped.
Thamel is hectic and chaotic due to the small winding streets and dense population. Many religious groups celebrate in this area with parades, music and marching through the streets causing traffic jams with the cars, motorbikes and people all trying to get through the tiny streets. Our guide joked that out of the 365 days, there are more than 366 festivals in the streets so it’s always crowded and loud.
It’s a very popular destination for the start of many tourists trekking so you can find shops selling knock off North Face and Patagonia gear. There are also tons of restaurants, cafes, and stores so it makes for great meandering. Plan to spend a few hours here so you can get the right gifts to bring home!
Local food is amazing. If you like Indian and Chinese, it’s almost an interesting blend of the two. Dal Bhat is the most famous but if you’re going on any treks, you’ll have this out in the countryside for almost every meal so save it for then. It’s lentil soup served with rice. Most places serve it as Thakali Thali (Nepali meal) on a large metal plate with small portions of spinach, curried veggies, pickled veggies, etc. Momo is delicious dumplings that can be vegetarian or meat. We recommend you try Momo Cha which is dumplings in a delicious curry sauce. There is every variety of noodles including Thukpa (Noodle Soup) and dry noodles. The food was so flavorful with curries but was also spicier than we expected.
Hiking
Most people who come to Nepal come for intense hiking. Being big fans of day hikes, we did a few hikes in the Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park. An interesting thing you can do is hike to tea houses/farm stays in the park. We hiked with our bags on our back so pack lightly as the more you bring, the harder the hike.
Starting out you hike through some small towns. Again with poor infrastructure, many of these towns and hikes have trash everywhere. The farther you get from town, the less trash. Please be considerate and throw your trash away responsibly.
After a 4 hour hike (10 km), with a few rest breaks and a stop for lunch, we made it to Prakriti Resort which is an organic farm with an amazing view of the mountains. They serve the produce they grow and the food was outstanding! The premise is adorable with flower lined walking paths and views of the valley and mountains. It kind of feels like you are in a fairytale.
One thing to be aware of is that in this national park, the government has taken former trails and made them into dirt roads for emergencies. We are used to hiking in the forest but this was more forest adjacent. But the mountain views are incredible.
The next day we hiked 22 km to the Nagarkot Farmhouse. This is a much older property that feels like an old cabin with a wood burning stove perfect for hikers looking for respite. Although not as modern and trendy as the last one, there was a certain charm to the farmhouse feel.
Nepal is a unique country, perfect for those looking for a different experience. A backpackers paradise where you can do 10 day hikes to the Base Camp at Everest or get lost in the winding traffic jams of Kathmandu.
